Making a set of jewelry “Northern Sun” in Evenki style

This article examines the best traditions of applied art of the Evenk people and the using of the basic Evenki ornaments in jewelry. The author’s design of the Evenki-style female jewelry set was created and the technology for the manufacture was developed..


Introduction
Today, in the context of modern life, the Evenki cultural heritage is lost among the younger generation. We must not forget the best traditions of our people.
The Evenki folk art has preserved ancient features, which are manifested both in the subject and in the form of a picture that reflecting human knowledge of the surrounding reality. However, until recently it was believed that ornamentation among Evenks is poorly developed [2].
A.L. Schrenk wrote that their embroidery was "extremely uniform in patterns and motives" [4]. Indeed, the ornamental patterns are simple and have a strict geometric form that can bring on the idea of scarcity and simplicity of Evenki ornamentation. In reality, the Evenki ornamentation has peculiarity and uniqueness expressed in the integrated use of ancient traditions and innovations. For instance, ornamentation of overhead joints relates to the ancient one, they were made of a white or colored hair of the deer in the "flagellum" technique and from the same hair were withdrawn patterns, such as "line", "pine tree" and the others. Traditions of decorating of the Evenki folk suit were also adapted. In the XVII-XVIII centuries the Tungus began to receive beads, colored cloth and other goods through Russian fur dealers. In general, the color and texture of embroidery became brighter, due to the use of colored textile, porcelain beads, and curly pendants for breastplates that were made from tin and copper [1].
In this way, folk art and crafts were deeply rooted in the Evenki culture, reflecting their worldview. Each family independently made various everyday items using ethnic canons in decoration. Women were engaged in decorating household items using leather, fur and textile; on other hand, men embossed on birch bark, carved on wood or bone. Skillful craftsmen and craftswomen always respected and revered for their ability to create beauty and harmony in everyday items [5].
It is well known that the Evenki's artistic and aesthetic talent also manifested itself in the processing of materials -fur, leather, bone and horn, wood, birch bark, the properties of which were studied by them perfectly .
The ornament makes these items more visible, finished, enriches the color side, more decorative. At the same time, the ornament carries not only decorative, but also magical, sacred meaning. The Evenks used the features of nature in ornaments and through them tried to protect themselves and loved ones from troubles. According to the ancient Evenki belief, there are three worlds (upper, middle and lower), to create the Earth and its inhabitants, the loon, duck and frog helped the creator god. Loon represents the element of water and is a symbol of love and family fidelity, she chooses a couple once and for life. The image of the upper world -the Sun, is depicted in the form of concentric circles or circles with a dot in the center. The color scheme necessarily contains the colors of the sun, earth, sky and snow.
In this way, the use of Evenki basic ornaments in jewelry develops and continues to preserve them. We made a stylized women's set in the Evenki style "Northern Sun", consisting of earrings and a transformer necklace.
The main motives of the composition of the jewelry are stylized form of loon's feet and the sun.
A review of the literature on Russian folk art and the art of the peoples of the former USSR proves that there is no single criterion for the classification of folk ornaments. Not surprisingly, given the weak development of the General theory of the ornament and the problem of classification, systematization little touched Yakut pattern, not studied by art historians, anthropologists studied insufficiently. The first attempts to classify the Yakut ornament were made in 1936 by the People's Artist of Yakutia M. M. Nosov -one of the first collectors, propagandists and researchers of the Yakut ornament. In the article "On the Yakut folk ornament" and the handwritten list of the classification of the Yakut ornament, M. M. Nosov sistematiziruete material on a number of grounds, including chronological (ornament prehistory, history, modernity), by purpose (religious rituals, social, construction, obstetrically), the items (objects, objects, public buildings, clothes, furniture, dishes, carriages, utensils, harness), by material (beads, glass beads, silver, copper, iron, stone, bone, horn, clay, wood, etc.), by the method of execution (engraving, embossing, forging, cutting, embroidery, crochet, etc.)

Results and Discussion
In design of this adornment , the emphasis is on ornamentation, in circles there are Evenki traditional patterns with sacred power, representing a sense of confidence and invulnerability.
Form of artistic products is simple and clear. The movement is constructed at the expense of rhythm of circles, the presence of cross-cutting elements, and using fianite stones. Mechanical movement of the earring elements is achieved through the use of a rod, each circles rotate individually . Silver is used as a material for jewelry; enamel, engraving, and stones are used as decoration.
Jewelry set "Northern Sun": was made in jewelCAD program: earrings with a movingelement and a transformer necklace .
The front part of the schwenza has the shape of a loon foot and is decorated with 20 stones -cubic zirconias in prong setting . From the bottom, 3 rings are held on the rod , on the lateral side of which there are 40, 30 and 20 stones, respectively, cubic zirconias in bezel setting. In the center is a circle with one large stone with 10 small stones , in the same setting (Fig. 1). The engraving pattern on the large ring was made in the form of pyramids, on the middle ring there are arcs and on the small -triangles (Fig. 2). The same patterns were used for the transformer necklace, and 60 cubic zirconia stones were inserted between them. In the center, they made a bezel setting with a stone size of 3 mm (Fig. 3). After printing on a digitalWAX 008J printer, they were made into a «pine tree» pattern. The wax sprue attached on a special rubber base and by using wax pen we attached future jewelry pieces to the main sprue at an angle of approximately 45° (Figure 4) . The products were cleaned of investments residues in an ultrasonic bath with an oscillation frequency of 50-80 kHz. To intensify the pickling process the product was annealed, then stood for pickling silver alloys in a 10% sulfuric acid for not more than 3-4 minutes. Cleaned the products by mixing with a magnetic field in a filler of metal needles on a magnetic tumbling (Fig. 5). After manual cleaning, setting stones , enameling, grinding and polishing, the "Northern Sun" Evenki style jewelry set is shown in Figure 6. We believe that jewelry should be modern , but it can reflect the most valuable folk traditions. Also, a modern technologies should be applied to create product that can achieve maximum accuracy, much contraction production time.