Textile and apparel entreprises sustainable development strategy: international and domestic experience

. Sustainable development of the (cid:3) textile and apparel enterprises is vast global and local trend. Given the negative externalities of the manufactory's impact on the external environment, many industry actors are actively adopting recycled or organic material practises, changing packaging formats and industrial production principles. Social initiatives, outreach and educational practices are not isolated instances of sustainability among strategic industry leaders. The research carried out in this article develops a deeper theoretical and practical understanding of the existence of strategic documents in the sustainability of fashion and light industry enterprises. This article applies the strategy theory and methodology of strategizing developed by Foreign Member of the Russian Academy of Sciences (Life-time), Dr.Sc. (Econ.) V.L. Kvint and fashion-strategizing process methodology dedicated to textile and apparel enterprises. The scientific novelty of the article is related to the detailed disclosure of the sustainable development strategies implementation practice aimed at achieving strategic priorities. It is newsworthy to note the full set of strategic documents presented in international companies. The generalised results obtained in this article can become the basis for applied research in the field of strategic development of companies in the domestic sector. One of the promising areas for further research may be the economic and social efficiency assessment of sustainable development strategy implementation.


Introduction
Sustainable development is a strategic focus worldwide.Thus, many countries are adopting new laws regulating carbon dioxide emissions and harmful substances into the atmosphere.At the corporate level, significant transformations are taking place in terms of changes in codes of social responsibility and other components of the strategic vision, philosophy and ideology.Consumers are beginning to pay attention to the ethical side of the issue when buying a product.There are a growing number of world cinema films devoted to the problems of flora and fauna.Eco-activists through documentaries, social media, public speaking and educational programmes are actively working to raise awareness of environmental issues and pollution, biodiversity loss and more.Many conferences and global forums focus on strategic plans to achieve sustainability goals and objectives.
The fashion industry is the second largest polluter of the world's environment after the oil industry.This alarming fact has prompted the adoption of more sustainable practices.Sustainability in the fashion industry is essential because it addresses issues of economic and social efficiency.It helps reduce water consumption, pollution, and unethical labour practises, promoting a more responsible and ethical approach to the clothing production and consumption.This contributes to a healthier planet and a fairer industry.
Research on the sustainability of the light and fashion industry is actively engaged in the academic community.Thus, theoretical works analyse a wide range of issues:  general principles of the sustainable development phenomenon in the textile industry and its evolution (Bourges, 2020), (Hossain, 2022), (Fernandopulle, 2022)

Materials and methods
The focus of this article is the strategic development of sustainable light industry and fashion industry in Russia and the world.The main purpose of this paper is to identify the strategic decisions of domestic and foreign enterprises.For this purpose, the article uses the following methods: analysis and synthesis, comparison and generalisation.
The article also uses the theory of strategy and strategy methodology developed by Foreign Member of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Doctor of Economics, Professor, Honoured Worker of Higher Education of the Russian Federation, laureate of the Lomonosov Prize of the first degree for scientific works V.L. Kvint.He formed the theoretical basis of strategy as a science (Kvint, Okrepilov, 2014), gave the sequence and stages of strategy development and implementation (Kvint, 2015(Kvint, , 2016(Kvint, , 2020)).They are presented in Fig. 1.
On the basis of the domestic methodology of strategizing, a separate methodology of strategizing process for fashion and light industry enterprises -fashion strategizing -has been developed and tested in practice (Khvorostyanaya, 2021).It is presented in Fig. 2.

Experience of foreign enterprises of light industry and fashion industry
The western fashion industry is the absolute trendsetter of global trends that are spreading to the industry in other countries.Various companies in the industry are actively seeking the strategic initiative of sustainable resource use.The outdoor brand Patagonia, for example, is recognized for its environmental activism and sustainable supply chains.It uses recycled materials in many of its products and donates a portion of its profits to environmental causes.The Allbirds footwear company uses materials such as merino wool and eucalyptus tree fibres to create eco-friendly footwear.The company also keeps transparent records of its carbon footprint and implements initiatives to reduce it.Clothing brand Eileen Fisher recycles and resells their clothing as part of a defined programme (Renew), and are committed to 100% organic cotton and linen (Global Organic Textile Standard -GOTS).The French athletic footwear brand Veja is known for their fair trade and transparency principles.The brand uses organic and recycled materials and works directly with farmers and manufacturers to ensure fair labour laws.Sezane has a social programme (DEMAIN) where profits are directed to educational and social projects for children, meaning that the company works on its social performance.In addition, the implementation of the strategic principles of sustainable development has also affected packaging issues by using more environmentally friendly materials.Ekyog operates a recycling scheme for clothing.The Stella McCartney brand has abandoned the use of fur and leather.
High-end brands in the sustainability segment are focused on strategic innovation, so they put their efforts into technology transfer.They are interested in avant-garde transformations (Kvint, Khvorostyanaya, Sasaev, 2020) and the search for high-tech solutions.For example, Chanel has taken significant steps in recent years to improve its strategic sustainability practices.The brand has invested in start-ups focused on cleantech and sustainable fashion, and has also committed to reducing emissions in its supply chain.Hermès launched a creative lab (Petit H) that uses leftover materials from other collections to create new pieces.

Russian light industry and fashion industry experience
The most common strategic scenario for domestic companies is to promote the strategic principle of long-term relevance.It is reflected in the creation of basic things that should be relevant always because of their universality.The following Russian companies adhere to it: Ushatava is a Moscow-based brand that strives to maintain sustainable production.They release their collections locally in limited quantities to reduce waste and overproduction.
Recycled Art Foundation -this Russian brand specialises in recycling and creating new clothes from old or used clothing.They use parts of vintage clothing to create unique, artistic pieces, promoting the principles of the circular economy.
Nina Donis -this designer brand aims to reduce its environmental impact by creating high quality, durable, long-lasting garments, helping to slow down the fast fashion cycle.
Another common strategic scenario is to use only domestic, locally sourced materials and touches on the principle of manufacturing regionally to reduce emissions related to logistics.
For example, Russian brand Outlaw Moscow uses only local materials and manufactures its clothes in Russia, which helps to significantly reduce its environmental impact.
Although awareness-raising or sustainability-orientated brands are emerging in Russia, the concept of sustainable fashion is still relatively new to the country.

Discussion
We will conduct a comparative characterisation of strategies in the field of foreign enterprises of light industry and fashion industry (Table 1).The two absolute strategic leaders in the industry, conglomerates LVMH and Kering, which together own more than 100 well-known brands, are implementing a range of strategic sustainability initiatives.It should be noted that Kering is an absolute pioneer -the conglomerate has developed a separate strategy with the strategic goal of reducing its environmental impact and increasing ethical sourcing.On a regular basis, the company reports events on the achievement of strategic objectives.The company also works in the field of education -the international education platform has a distinct course dedicated to sustainability.LVMH in the field of sustainable fashion has also created a carbon fund for refinancing projects and is actively working on the certifications of greening.
Let us conduct a comparative characterisation of domestic brands by sales volume according to the domestic marketplace Lamoda based on the results of 2022 (Table 2).For example, the company 12storeez came to the conclusion about this trend only after 7 years of work.Urban Tiger brand is initially focused on eco-initiatives, so they have not only this strategic positioning, but also goods made of recycled materials.

Conclusion
The sustainable development of the textile and apparel industry is a major global and regional trend.The development of sustainable development strategy for light industry,and fashion industry requires a clear methodological framework.This study analyses the strategic practise of development and implementation of a sustainable development strategy of foreign and domestic companies.It should be noted that foreign companies are much more likely to have developed a concept of sustainable development than domestic enterprises.The outlined results can be implemented in the actual practise of domestic enterprises, and used to achieve strategic goals and objectives.
Despite the abundance of research in the field of sustainability, there is a lack of comparative characterisation of strategic development documents of light industry and fashion enterprises.This determined the purpose of this study is to identify the experience of development and implementation of sustainable development strategies of sectoral enterprises based on the methodology of the domestic school of strategizing.Both foreign and domestic sectoral enterprises are studied.

Table 1 .
Strategic analysis of international companies' documents in the field of sustainable development.Source: compiled by the author on the basis of open data.

Table 2 .
Strategic analysis of domestic companies' documents in the field of sustainable development.Source: compiled by the author on the basis of open data.