Development and characterization of mangosteen rind (Garcinia mangostana) as a natural dye for batik

Fashion Design Department, Faculty of Fine Arts and Design, University of Sebelas Maret, Indonesia

^* Corresponding author: nisaularosyad@staff.uns.ac.id

Abstract

Garcinia mangostana contains xanthones and anthocyanins that can produce stable pigments while utilizing organic waste. This finding supports the use of natural dyes in batik, while also serving as a tangible response to the growing demand for more ethical and environmentally responsible clothing. The research was conducted at Batik Kebon Indah in Klaten to examine the extraction process, application technique, and performance of mangosteen-rind dye on cotton fabric. The study involved direct engagement in the dyeing process through cycles of extraction, mordanting, dyeing, and fixation using alum, lime, and tunjung (iron) to evaluate how different mordants influence colour outcomes and durability. Laboratory tests were conducted to evaluate colorfastness to washing and rubbing. This study employs a qualitative action research approach, supported by descriptive quantitative data, to explore and describe the process, effectiveness, and practical application of mangosteen-rind natural dye in batik production, including the use of three fixatives. That is alum, lime, and iron (tunjung) to examine how different mordanting treatments influence the resulting colour quality and durability. This research offers a practical, tested alternative to synthetic dyes, providing further insights into natural-pigment innovation, circular design, and sustainable textile production that can enhance product differentiation and support eco-friendly branding.